LFW Review: LFW AW24 RoundUp

Black Brits put in the work - reflections on the themes, silhouettes and looks that dominated London fashion week.

A retrospective and nostalgic exploration of contemporary fashion interpretations showcased in the AW24 London Fashion week. Highlighting shows from Saul Nash, Tolu Cocker, KNWLS, Eastwood Danso and Conner Ives.

by Kenny Downs

As London Fashion Week came to a close, we can be certain that we will continue to sport our best tailoring, furs, and denim throughout the year and into next autumn and winter. It seems as though we’re painting the town red through statement pieces and accents (see AW24 Tolu Coker),both vivid and serene greens are going to flirt their way back into our rotations. 

“The thing that makes our fashion landscape vibrant is diversity, especially through body size, age, race, and gender.”

This season was marked by modern cuts and tailoring with numerous nods to the futuristic dreams of the ’60s, ’80s, and ’00s.One of the things that make fashion week the marvellous spectacle it is is the stories told through the looks designers give us to relate to. Every detail is meticulously planned and plotted from the designs to the styling, from makeup to the hair, model selection to the model walk, the DJ mix to the staging.A recurring theme throughout the season was retrospection, recalling family stories and experiences or fun re-imaginations of expressive trends of the past with present-day contexts.

This fashion week, these designers put in work to give us beautiful collections.The thing that makes our fashion landscape vibrant is diversity, especially through body size, age, race, and gender. As creative directors across high fashion are largely somewhat established, we believe it is necessary we look to our younger designers of colour who can give us their refreshing takes on fashion and remind us of the cultures that make the London fashion scene as rich as it is. Here are some of the most refreshing collections of the season.

Saul Nash 

Saul Nash feeds us every year with his interpretations of techwear and activewear. His core themes are movement and community, and never fails to give us active presentations that unite us. His newest RTW collection, Dresscodes, gives us context as to how to party maturely. Inspired by his brother dressing up for the club, Nash embraces his trackie roots and reimagines the party dress code. Imagine lounging at home or breaking a sweat at the gym and you got on the party list last minute. Chuck on a pair of loafers and you’re ready to wear any piece from this collection.

Tolu Coker 

In a collection aptly titled Broken English, Tolu Coker reminisces back to her Nigerian heritage watching her mother street hawk, or selling goods on the street in Lagos. Coker was inspired by her mother’s and other street hawkers’ ability to improvise and have so much to give while having little in wares. These women were savvy and smart salespeople, and Coker elegantly shows that within her collection. On a runway that replicates a Nigerian road market, the models were smartly dressed in their tailoring in trademark Tolu Coker style. Their hair was as slick as their ability to sell us the chicest styles. Neutrals dominated the collection with the festive exceptions of bright green, reds, and multicoloured stripes towards the end of the show, illustrating colourful success. 

Eastwood Danso 

Eastwood Danso studied fashion as a voyeur growing up from the ‘80s into the mid-noughties through moving across the world with his family. In his sophomore collection, Wicked Love, he reflects on the sacrifices his family had to make to live better, more fulfilling lives. With a strong focus on tailoring, Danso tells the story of dressing for success when home is where the heart is. In reference to his heritage, his designs feature black stars that serve as stamps of his Ghanaian pride. He splashes this flare throughout the collection through brightly coloured ties and shoe flaps. Boxy cropped shapes paired with cutouts marked Danso’s signature futuristic flair. 

KNWLS

KNWLS’ Sensational collection is for the girls who want something new yet something familiar. The styles in the collection definitely harken back to the ‘80s and the beginning of ‘80s revival fashion during the mid-'00s. Think capri trousers and minimalist maxi dresses but also think bold leather and fur. Lest we forget the sequins and the shoulder pads harking the revolutionary power suit! KNWLS kept true to their punky attitude through their classic corsetry and bold silver jewellery on models who had effortlessly cool “IDGAF'' energy. Late ‘00s alt music filled the space as they power strutted through the runway, tired from a long day of work at the office, yet possessed by their dedication to a few espresso martinis on the company card. The girls were working and werking.

Conner Ives 

Conner Ives’ mission is to reimagine Americana. What if Americana were a little more fab and luxurious? In his latest collection, The Swans, he takes us back to the swanky ‘60s modernly reimagined in the Savoy ballroom. Modest silhouettes with hair bands and bumped ends adorned models as they graced the calm floral blue floors. The collection showcases Ive’s growth as a designer, experimenting with shapes yet keeping true to the fun by ruching deadstock vintage graphics. The absolute standout piece of the collection was the last dress featuring Apple wired earphones stitched throughout, creating a 3D floral effect. Conner Ives’ growth is solidifying him within the international fashion scene.

What’s next ?

In the upcoming seasons, I hope to see continued anecdotal explorations of these designers’ pasts and persistent play with fashion in modern history. Looking ahead, expect to see shiny clothes including the party fringe, shimmering sequins, and timeless shiny leather. Floral patterns will adopt a more three-dimensional character, and fashion will evolve with and marry technology, exemplified by Conner Ives collection or through innovative production with Saul Nash’s activewear. I am excited to see virtually everything trend all at once so everyone can embrace their individual style.